Haridwar, the banks of Ganga
Once you step in Haridwar you realize how a crowd can be both chaotic and charismatic at the same time. It’s a city of great religious significance to Hindu’s as it’s on the banks of the holy river Ganga. Haridwar marks the place where Ganga descends from the hills and enters the plains. Semi clad men and women half immersed in river water pray to the goddess, water that is cold despite the Indian summer. Pilgrims come in groups of, they pray, they tour and strengthen the bonds of immediate and associated family. Many priests find easy prey amongst the superstitious men and women who bow at the narrow windows at the temples.
The crowds pray and play at the holy steps known as “har ki paaudi” meaning the steps of god, which link the old city area to the river Ghat. The teenage boys swim the river shouting “har har Gange! “, Much to the concern of their mothers who themselves juggle the prayer thali and their sari as they make way to reach the steps. The twilight brings a new life as the frolic gives way to faith and prayers begin. The priest lights up the 4 foot lamp which has 101 smaller lamps in it and descends to the river. The light from the lamps illuminates his saffron and sandalwood painted forehead.
With eyes shut he chants loudly shlokas in salutation of the Ganga and the crowd turns to a devoted prayer audience. People on both sides of the river clasp their hands and pray to the goddess for prosperity, their faces lit with slight shimmer of the Arti and glowing with the deep contentment.
The Arti concludes and the chaos returns to the Ghat, along with loud announcements of the names of the children that are lost and the cleanliness measures, the voice at the loudspeakers filled with both concern and disgust. Elderly occupying comfortable positions at benches placed at the bridge talk about how the city has changed over the last 50 years. As the dawn turns to night the tired pilgrims retire to the hotels and eateries mushroomed around the holy place.
